Remembering an Aussie Wine Icon

Wynns Coonawarra Estate John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1994

Regular readers of this blog may recall that back in January 2021 I posted a piece on my top ten wines of 2020. One of those wines was this Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon 1994, which is Wynns’ reserve bottling from their Coonawarra Estate in South Australia. This is what I wrote about this particular bottle (in my cellar since May 1999 and opened 21 years later in May 2020) back then:

“A wine for the ages: beautifully mature classic Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon with incredible flavour intensity (eucalyptus, mint, cassis, blackberry and savoury cured meats), balance, length and silky complexity, yet still remarkably alive at 26 years of age. A truly great Aussie red.”

At the time of tasting it in 2020, I wrote in my wine diary, inter alia:

“Deep, intense, dark colour…Intense, profound nose…Deeply flavoured…powerful, complex, evolved. Sublime cabernet.” I also gave it five stars (and 98 points) in my personal rating system.

Today I was happily reminded of this wine, and the deep impression it made on me: A weekly newsletter from Vinous, a well-respected online wine review that I subscribe to, had an in-depth article by Angus Hughson about a vertical tasting of Wynns John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignons stretching back to the very first bottling in 1982, with detailed tasting notes for each vintage. Hughson aptly describes the John Riddoch as one of Australia’s “leading cellaring propositions for Australian Cabernet Sauvignon” and the famed Terra Rossa soils of Coonawarra as one of the country’s greatest vineyard terroirs. Hughson also noted that very few of the wines he tasted were past their best, and that the John Riddoch has incredible staying power. I can certainly attest to that with my experience of the 1994, which was anything but over the hill.

So what did Hughson write about the 1994? Well, among other things, he says, “…offers up a more traditional expression of Coonawarra that retains its vibrancy and freshness… The palate…[delivers] a sinewy texture which currently seems a little heavy. This may come around in time.” Drinking window: 2030 – 2038. And his score? 92 points.

Phew, it almost (but not quite) made me wonder if I opened it too soon. But I stand by my own review and rating. Truly one of the Aussie wine icons. And a great vinous memory.