Why would anyone travel from Vancouver all the way to Cape Town, in the midst of a virulent pandemic, and during the depths of the South African winter? Short answer: to be with my beloved mother before she passed away. That mission was thankfully accomplished, which is a blessing. This blog post is dedicated to her memory.
While my recent trip to South Africa was arranged in haste, and focused primarily on seeing my mother of course, it was not entirely without other diversions. Among these was trying as many Cape wines as time and circumstances permitted. So, given those difficult circumstances, there were no pre-arranged private tastings with favoured wine producers or extended visits to multiple wineries, as would normally be the case; instead I tried what wines I could, when I could. After all, one still has to eat (and drink!) every day. My mother would no doubt approve. So here – in alphabetical order – is a sampling of some of the wines I came across during my recent strange, difficult visit to the ever-beautiful Cape. Many of these were, in a word, terrific. Frustratingly, almost none of these wines is exported to British Columbia. Our loss.
Ataraxia Pinot Noir 2017, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley – earthy, complex, truffly, savoury, with fresh acidity from this cooler year.
Cederberg Private Cellar Five Generations Chenin Blanc 2019, Cederberg – from this high-altitude cool-climate winery in the Cederberg Mountains. Saline, mineral, crushed stones, lime and stone fruits, with great line and length. Notable acidity, crisp and clean. Rigorous. See also below
David & Nadia Aristargos 2019, Swartland – a superb, richly complex, yet perfectly balanced Chenin-led white blend from mostly old vines. Riveting.
Delheim Grand Reserve 2017, Stellenbosch – a classic Bordeaux red blend from the excellent 2017 vintage. 5 stars (95 points) in Platter’s Wine Guide.
DeMorgenzon Maestro White 2017, Stellenbosch – a complex, aromatic, succulent blend led by Roussanne with Chenin, Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Marsanne.
Diemersdal Private Collection 2017, Durbanville – yet another beautifully poised Bordeaux blend, led by Cabernet Sauvignon. Well-structured, deep, persistent and elegant, with succulent black fruits and fresh acidity.
Dorrance Syrah 2019 Cuvée Ameena, Western Cape – poised, refined, elegant, svelte Syrah with cool freshness, a dead ringer for Northern Rhone.
Driehoek Mieke Pinot Noir 2018 & 2019, Cederberg – impressive, if young, cool climate Pinots, with racy acidity and fresh, bold fruitiness.
Glenelly Estate Reserve 2014, Stellenbosch – a savoury, serious Bordeaux blend enhanced and complexed by the inclusion of 15% Syrah. Great poise and refinement, with some bottle age complexity emerging.
Haskell Vineyards II 2011, Stellenbosch – an elegant, complex blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon from Stellenbosch vines, with bottle-age complexity and tertiary flavours emerging.
JAN Special Cuvée White 2017, Swartland – Celebrity chef Jan van der Westhuizen’s own label, from the curiosly named Org de Rac wine estate in the northern Swartland. A finely balanced, restrained yet elegant blend of Verdelho, Roussanne and Chenin Blanc.
Klein Constantia Metis Sauvignon Blanc 2017, Constantia – made in collaboration with the Loire-based Pascal Jolivet, this was a revelation: complex, intricate, with great minerality and smokey, stony freshness. Cape Sancerre?
Kleine Zalze Chenin Blanc Vineyard Selection 2020, Stellenbosch – vivacious, fresh, opulent ripeness, and one of the best value wines according to Platter’s Wine Guide 2021 (5 stars, 96 points).
I did manage to attend one structured wine tasting, at Cape Town’s cool Culture Wine Bar, which was a terrific (that word again!) window into the many outstanding white blends being made in the Cape. In order of tasting:
Bosman Adama 2020 (Chenin plus Grenache Blanc)
B Vintners Haarlem to Hope 2018 (Chenin plus Semillon and Muscat)
Beaumont New Baby 2018 (multi varietal led by Chenin Blanc)
Avondale Cyclus 2017 (Roussanne & Chardonnay led multi-varietal blend)
AA Badenhorst White 2019 (Chenin Blanc-led multi varietal blend)
Mullineux Old Vines White 2020 (Chenin Blanc-led multi varietal blend)
Stark-Condé Field Blend 2020 (Roussanne-led multi-varietal blend)
David & Nadia Aristargos 2020 (see listing above)
Alheit Cartology 2020 (Chenin Blanc plus splash Semillon) – my standout wine of the flight
The Sadie Family Palladius 2019 (11 varietals!) – also very impressive but still a bit young and reticent, will age beautifully.
We also managed to squeeze in one winery visit, while staying in the Cederberg Wilderness for a brief getaway: David Nieuwoudt’s remote, high-altitude Cederberg Private Cellar, where we tasted:
From the winery’s Cederberg home vineyards:
Cederberg Chenin Blanc 2021
Cederberg Sauvignon Blanc 2020
Cederberg Shiraz 2018
And from the winery’s southern coast, maritime Elim-sourced range:
Ghost Corner Sauvignon Blanc 2019
Ghost Corner Wild Ferment Sauvignon Blanc 2019 (5 stars)
Ghost Corner Semillon 2018
Ghost Corner The Bowline 2018
Ghost Corner Pinot Noir 2019
Finally, back in Cape Town, on our last night at The Butcher’s Shop & Grill for a sublime steak dinner, a bottle of Mullineux Syrah 2017, Swartland – an old favourite that did not disappoint.
