Well that was an interesting year…! Apart from health scares in our family, crazy populist politics, and global warming alarm bells ringing all around (Cape Town barely recovers from almost running out of water, wildfires burning up Australia, typhoons, mudslides, hurricanes, melting ice caps, etc.), there were some memorable wines that soothed the savage breast and helped to make it all a bit more bearable. Here, in no particular order of quality, rarity or price, are my top ten (or so) Wines of the Year for 2019:
Haut-Carles 1999 Fronsac, Bordeaux, France
A delicious, approachable Right Bank Bordeaux, all Merlot-dominated red and black fruits, savoury yet sweet and jammy, with lovely tertiary development. All you could wish for in a modern 20-year-old red Bordeaux.
Le Mesnil Blanc de Blancs NV Grand Cru Champagne, France
What better way to ring in the new year, than this classic, bone-dry, elegant, fresh yet complex, toasty blanc de blancs from only Grand Cru vineyards in the heart of Champagne’s Cote des Blancs zone? The kicker is the price: barely crossing $50. A steal, relatively speaking.
Cape of Good Hope Laing Semillon 2014, Citrusdal Mountain, South Africa
Serious, complex, rare old-vine Semillon from the Anthonij Rupert stable of wines sourced from some of the Cape’s oldest vineyards in neglected outlying areas such as Citrusdal. Great line and length. Stands with the best from anywhere.
Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Reserva 2001 Blanco, Rioja, Spain
A Spanish vinous national treasure, made in the traditional oxidative style by one of Rioja’s most traditional houses. Complex, with emerging secondary and tertiary characteristics that add nuttiness, vanilla and toast. A taste that I’m deeply happy to have acquired. Years ahead of it still.
Valdespino Palo Cortado Viejo C. P. Single Vineyard Sherry, Jerez, Spain
Another Spanish national treasure, this one from the criminally under-appreciated Jerez region, a classic style aged dry sherry from a single vineyard of Palomino grapes grown in the famed Macharnudo pago. Think roasted hazelnuts, walnuts, mineral and citrus tones. Magisterial.
Laroche Chablis Premier Cru Mont de Milieu 2012, France
This and the next wine: a brace of Chablis 1r Cu at their best. Evolved, complex, balanced acidity with emerging nutty, toasty richness, salt, and a creamy texture and elegant, rich mouthfeel.
La Chablisienne Chablis Premier Cru Vaulorent 2014, France
An old favourite, and it does not disappoint: getting ever more complex, rich, layered and so perfectly balanced between the wine’s racy acidity and rich nuttiness.
These two classic Chablis illustrate perfectly what the best winemakers here can produce in a good year, and the benefits of bottle age.
Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon 1994, Loire Valley, France
We tasted this in our WSET Diploma class, and it blew me away, just as it did the first time I tasted these amazing sweet dessert wines from this traditional producer whose underground cellars in the obscure little Loire Valley town of Doué-la-Fontaine hides maybe a million bottles of this elixir!
The next two wines were both experienced on my recent visit to the Cape’s Swartland region. Benchmarks of the best of South Africa, both.
David & Nadia Hoe-Steen Chenin Blanc 2018, Swartland, South Africa
I’m cheating a bit here, as I tasted this with David Sadie alongside his two other single vineyard Chenins (the Skaliekop and Plat’bos), all three of which were vibratingly vivid and each unique. This one, off a certified heritage 1968 vineyard, had memorable intensity, with gravel, mineral, dusty notes over quince, apple, greengage, smoke, flint. I could go on…
Mullineux Schist Syrah 2017, Swartland, South Africa
Again, not really fair to single out just one of Andrea and Chris Mullineux’s three equally extraordinary yet different Syrahs, each made from grapes grown in different soils: Granite, Schist and Iron. The Schist (grown on the Roundstone home farm) gets the nod for its crystaline, linear, mineral, elegance, its bracing acidity and the balanced elegance. Perfumed, feminine, reticent: So much to anticipate.
Domaine de Vieux Donjon 1995 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France
Finally, a late runner in the last week of the year, and what a charmer, even at 24 years of age. The decanted wine offered up sweet elemental red berry and cherry juice, haunting savouriness, and complex evolved tertiary characteristics of smoked meats, tar, forest floor, and so much else besides. What great Chateauneuf often promises but seldom delivers. The best of the southern Rhone.