I’m off to visit the vineyards of Sicily this month.

Ask anyone in Sicily what their nationality is and they’re most likely to say Sicilian rather than Italian. Yet this most un-Italian corner of Italy is now home to some of that country’s finest restaurants and wines. A New Sicily is emerging.

This island—both blessed and cursed—that bestrides the Mediterranean has endured centuries of invasion and occupation. As such, it’s culture and cuisine have been equally influenced by both Africa and Europe. For long Italy’s poorest backwater, the football to its boot, Sicily suffered feudal neglect, earthquakes and rampant mafia activity, which almost strangled the life out of the place. For decades the island’s best and brightest abandoned the island in droves. In recent years however, a younger generation of old Sicilian families and new investors from the mainland (and beyond Italy) have re-discovered the classic terroirs of this island, shaking up the food and wine scene and putting Sicily firmly on the radar of foodies and wine-lovers worldwide.

I will be visiting several different wine regions of Sicily, including Etna, Cerasuolo di Vittoria and Menfi. I plan to reveal an understanding of these regions through the eyes of local landowners, farmers, winemakers and chefs who I will spend time with. I will be visiting several wineries in the island’s deep countryside where rural traditions continue to be respected (or rediscovered) alongside new agricultural techniques and investment. The resulting wines have been remarkable.

For example, the northern slopes of Mount Etna—Europe’s most active volcano—are now home to some of Italy’s most exciting new wineries, carved literally out of recent lava flows. These volcanic soils produce haunting wines that are mineral and stony, with high acidity and elegant aromas that perfectly express this unique environment. If you haven’t already tried the wines of Etna, don’t delay. 

Stay tuned and check back here for my detailed Sicily report upon my return.